So this was the original plan, laid out sometime early last year:
And here’s the new plan, based on lots of mocking up and thinking and head-scratching and more than a little beer-drinking:
Category: Bumper
Bumper Building, Day 3
I was back in Chestertown today to work on the bumper with Mr. Scout after a holiday hiatus. When last we left, I decided to ditch the hinge we originally bought and ordered a new top-mount spindle design, which we planned to adapt and fit to the bumper face. The first thing we did was bolt the new one on and do some test-fitting to see how things will line up.
Allowing for the height of the spindle, we decided to move it outboard of the tailgate by 1/2″ and scoot it down as much as possible. This means the swingarm no longer sits on the face of the bumper. Now, when it’s closed, the bottom of the swingarm aligns roughly with the top of the bumper. (We couldn’t simply mount the spindle through the top of the bumper, because the spindle is only 4″ tall and the bumper is 6″).
With that in mind, we trimmed the end of the swingarm to fit the round weldable sleeve of the hinge and tacked it into place. Then we pulled the bumper off and mocked it up on the garage floor to eyeball everything.
What we found was that moving the hinge further outboard moved the swingarm offcenter by about 1″, so we pondered this over a delicious steak lunch (thanks, Mr. Scout!) and glass of IPA, and then got to grinding the swingarm triangle off the bar. After we cleaned up the edges, we moved it 1″ and tacked it back together then mocked it up again to check the fit.
One surprise benefit to the new design is that it frees up the face of the bumper to mount a Hi-Lift directly under the swingarm, as opposed to the swingarm itself. So we tacked in two square rests and made provisions to drill holes for mounting bolts through the bumper.
So the plan from here is that Mr. Scout is going to take the two parts to his welder and have him burn everything together. Then we’ll bring the Scout and the parts, mount the bumper, and get the swingarm just the way we want it before welding it on for good.
* * *
Today also marks the first time Peer Pressure has run out of gas. I was about a mile outside of Centerville when I lost all power at the pedal and she slowly coasted to the side of the road. Thank GOD I wasn’t on the bridge when that happened. I emptied my 1-gallon jerry can into the tank, primed the carb, and she fired right back up again.
I put 5 gallons in as I was leaving home, and PP made it 54+ miles to Centerville before running out. It was extremely windy today, and I had my foot in the gas the whole way over (60 indicated, which equates to about 68MPH) but 11MPG sucks balls.
Change in Plans?
So thinking about some of the issues we’ve seen with Brian’s bumper and the sag in the hinge has us thinking. In my post on the Binder Planet, I put out the call for other hinge alternatives, and we got some information about this hinge setup. It’s meant for a top-mount system, but Brian and I talked over an alternative that would work if we can find someone with a metal brake to fab it up for us:
It’s a C-shaped piece with two holes drilled for the hinge sleeve, and a third tab added in the center for extra rigidity. It gets mounted to the face of the bumper, then the sleeve is welded inside the holes, and none of the geometry of the bumper needs to be altered.
Bumper Building, Day 2
Sunday morning I returned to the Eastern Shore for day two of building my rear bumper for the Scout. While this was my second day, technically it was Brian’s third or fourth, because he had worked hard to get his ready for our trip to Hatteras back in September. Here’s a picture of what his looks like, completed:
Now, a little history: We built the design around a hinge we found online, which was rated for 3000 pounds and built for hanging fence doors. With that in mind, we decided to mount the hinge to the face of the bumper and have the swingarm come off the front, vs. a pole hinge on top. The reason for this was to keep the pivot of the arm closer to the middle of the bumper instead of the top of the far corner, and to allow for more clearance between a lowered tailgate and the top of the bumper.
What wound up happening was that there is a lot more vertical play in the hinge than we’d anticipated—it looks like it was designed to carry a heavy vertical load in tandem with one or more identical hinges, but never to deal with shear loads by itself. When it’s pulled free from the receiver, it immediately droops by about 1.5″ under the weight of itself, a Hi-Lift, and spare tire. This is, as you might imagine, not optimal. We decided to move forward with the design and materials we have, and if we come up with a better solution, grind it off and replace it.
On the other side, we cut down a section of 2.5″ box tube and added a trailer pin to close the swingarm.
To mount to the body, there are two standoffs of 2.5″ box mounted to plate, using the four holes from the OEM standoffs. We also welded angle support to the backside of the frame to beef up the mount point.
Provisions for a Hi-Lift are on the swingarm; Brian drilled bolt holes and welded two supports to the underside for the jack to rest on. I’m going to swap ends with my mount so that the foot of the Hi-Lift is on the hinge side.
So. Yesterday’s labor started with two angle grinders and a lot of noise. With three people working, we had all outside surfaces clean, deburred, and straight in about an hour.
It was during the grinding portion that I discovered the main tube is tuned to a high A#, according to the app on my iPhone.
The first things we did were to tack in the endcaps on the main tube, then put the Hi-Lift notches in place. We’re having a pro lay in the full welds; this is all just for placement and transport.
We moved on to the top swingarm, measuring and correcting for clean 90° angles. Once we’d straightened it out, it got tacked into place. Then we measured and tacked in the side supports to brace everything together.
Once the arms were in place, we measured (again) for the diameter of the spare tire (mine is 32″, Brian’s is a 31″) and added a few inches for clearance, then welded a mounting plate to the standoff, tacked that to the vertical arm, and added a 45° gusset directly below.
After taking a break, we cleaned up a little bit and got things ready for mockup. First, my OEM bumper had to come off, which took some PBBlaster and air tools. Then, we clamped the OEM standoffs to ours and drilled out the holes. Next, we mounted the new standoffs temporarily and then lifted the new bumper into place, supported by a single 2×4″. After careful measurement, marking with a sharpie, location of a fire extinguisher, and a few Hail Marys, we tacked the standoffs to the back of the bumper tube.
Looks good!
By this time, we were pretty tired, I was facing an hour and a half ride home over the bridge, and anything else we wanted to do would take some serious consideration. The hinge is the big question; we’re thinking about alternatives to the mechanical problem, or changes in the geometry (angling the hinge slightly upward to account for droop).
And, on the plus side: the manifold replacement surgery is holding strong, quiet, and smooth. It no longer sounds like a thundering herd of doom, and the cabin doesn’t stink of exhaust anymore.
Bumper Building, Day 1
Continuing from my first thread (gas tank replacement), Sunday morning Brian and I took Peer Pressure out for a test ride to get breakfast, and everything seemed to be working great. We had some food and then adjourned to the garage to begin our second project: cutting steel for new rear bumpers. We took our cues from a couple of different writeups here on the BP, especially this one this one and this one, and a number of different pictures and other references from around the web. What we originally imagined and what we wound up with are two different things, as you’ll see here.
The first thing Brian did, months ago, was find us the hinges. He got them here: Guardian Gate hinges He got the 2000 series unprimed model.
From there, we worked with the specifications some other folks had used, and bought a length of 6″ x 2″ 3/16″ box steel as well as two pieces of 2″ x 2″ in the same thickness. The first step was cutting the bumpers down. We used a very durable Porter & Cable circular saw with standard metal cutting blades. We decided to keep the width the same as the stock steel bumper, so they got cut to 64″ wide.
Next, we cut the swingarms 54″ long and mocked them up roughly on the bumpers. We originally debated mounting the swingarm on top of the bumper or on its face, and finally decided to mount on the face 3/4″ outside the edge of the endcap so that the tailgate can be lowered with the swingarm at a 90Ëš angle.
Next was the cradle for the swingarm, which came from 2.5″ box steel. Brian notched out one side by hand and we sliced two of them off.
From there, we pulled out our spares and laid them down on some board to mock up the vertical tube. Originally we were going to mount Hi-Lift jacks on the two support bars below the tire, but as we looked at it in person, we thought it would raise the tire too high. (we’re both paranoid about the welds giving way and the whole thing falling off the back of the truck into oncoming traffic).
We both agreed that we’re not going to be running anything larger than a 32″ tire for the foreseeable future, so we settled on that as our baseline size. We decided to lower the spare to about 1.5″ above the swingarm–mine will be 1″ higher than his–and mount the jacks on the face of the swingarm. The vertical bar is 28.5″ high. We lengthened the support arms so that they make a triangle right where the standoff for the tire mounting plate will go.
With that figured out, we cut four support arms down and laid out the triangles on the floor. It was looking like we were going to finish it all up quickly, but then it slowly dawned on us that we had a ton of smaller cuts and pieces to make.
Luckily it was about this time we took a break for lunch, changed into clean clothes, and stopped over to a friend’s house to watch him brew a Belgian triple while being interviewed for the local paper (and sip on a Dogfish Head 90 Minute while doing so). Suitably refreshed, we returned to the garage.
I’ll probably remember this out of order because it was hotter than the hinges of Hell that afternoon, but next we cut two standoffs for the tire mounts and attempted to cut braces for them. Then we measured for standoffs on the frame and cut those from the 3″ box so that the new bumpers will sit roughly at the same height and depth as the stock steel bumpers do, providing enough clearance to lower the tailgate and access the hitch below.
Brian took on the four most difficult cuts himself, which were the shallow angles on either end of the bumpers. We sloped them 6″ from the ends and 2″ from the bottom.
Then, we used some cardboard to measure and mock up flat steel for the spare mounting plate; that piece is a 6″ x 9″ rectangle aligned vertically so that we can use three of the five bolt holes on the spare. Then we cut a bunch of small plates to seal up all of the open ends of tubing.
We made notches for jack mounting points on the bottom. We sliced our remaining 2.5″ box in half and then cut four notches out of the top. Then we measured 12″ from the ends of the bumpers, centered them on that mark, and notched the bottom out. This cut is the only one we couldn’t make with our limited tools; we’re going to hire a professional welder to connect everything and have him use a plasma cutter to chop those bits out before welding in the notches.
The last four cuts were angle iron for mounting the whole assembly to the frame; we’re going to weld the angle so that it’s on the outside edges of the frame rails and bolt the bumper plates to that, as well as the crossmember–we are taking everyone’s warnings into consideration.
By this point it was about 5:30 or so and we were whupped, so we called it a day and cleaned up the shop. I think we probably have a couple of small things left to do–cutting plates for the bumper standoffs comes to mind, as well as gussets or braces for the tire standoff–before we’re ready to call in a welder. We also need to run power out to the arm and come up with some kind of lighted license plate bracket that’ll mount inside the wheel. Brian’s goal is to get his bumper mounted and ready by September 1 for a vacation trip, and I’d love to have mine by then too, if possible.
This took two guys about six or so hours with minimal steelworking equipment: A circular saw, four metal blades, some clamps, angles, and a flat surface in the shade.