Wheel Talk

Following up on my last post, I ran out to Frederick on Sunday to pick up a pair of NIB steel 5×4.5 wheels from a nice gentleman named Tom. After measuring the backspacing and offset, I went ahead and pulled the trigger anyway—all four were only $75—but even before I fit one on the truck as a test, I knew it wouldn’t work correctly. These wheels are 6.5″ wide, and the offset is the same as the wheels I’ve got, which means there’s an extra 2″ of wheel inboard of the hubs; this means they’re too far inward to actually mount to the truck without rubbing against the body. My initial thought was that I could buy 1″ or 2″ spacers to get them to fit, but then I’d also need longer wheel studs, and that was getting more and more expensive and time-consuming. So, I discarded that idea.

But, this did give me some good information to jump off from. These wheels are made by Dorman, and they did offer other options in this wheel pattern, but most all of the ones available are direct replacements for OEM wheels and don’t have the correct offset. Some more looking turned up a set of Wheel Vintique steelies at 16″ and 6″ wide with the correct offset; the only problem is that they’re $200/ea. So this will be a save-up-for-it thing, and I’ll keep my travels local until I can make the purchase.

In the meantime, I picked up an OEM International seatbelt retractor from a fellow on Marketplace. Darth Haul only has non-retractable lap belts, and when I got the green truck it came with two of these retractors on the back seat. They are essentially a C-shaped springloaded device that coils up the belt when it’s not buckled. I put them on Darth up front, and they do a great job of keeping the seatbelts inside the truck and away from scraping along the pavement. Of the two I inherited, one was rusty and the metal tabs that hold the belt were weak; it works, but it would be great to have two solid units up front.

I bought a new power steering pump for Peer Pressure, which will be here Tuesday; swapping this in will be part of the weekend’s chore list so that I can keep her from piddling all over the driveway. I think I’ve got the right fittings for the Hydroboost setup, but some further research is required.

On the merchandise front, I made a bunch of updates to the new T-shirt storefront at Fourthwall, which I’m happier and happier about every day. I’ve already made a bunch of sales there—the first customer, who bought a Make Scouts $500 Again shirt, wore it to the Rocky Mountain Roundup, and within a couple of days I had three more sales from Colorado. The entire setup of this storefront is so much friendlier and equitable compared to Threadless, which was pretty much a joke. I wish I’d known that earlier.

I also set up a VERY simple page at duganheavyindustries.com and built a draft page for the cupholder. I’m still finalizing some stuff, but I’m going to put a feeler post out on a couple of the Facebook groups to see if I can generate enough interest to make the initial investment—I figure 5 committed buyers should be enough to have 10 sets made, and that will recoup the costs. I sourced the shipping boxes, so the last thing I need is some way to take payment. WordPress has all kinds of e-commerce plugins available, so I’ll have to see if that’s worth the time—or if I just do Venmo and roll the dice.

Shaky

Death Wobble. It’s an issue Jeep owners of a certain era are very familiar with: in solid-axle suspension setups, when elements like track bars, ball joints, tie rods, or wheel bearings wear out, the entire steering setup will start to oscillate and quickly shake the front of the truck to the point where it becomes uncontrollable. While I know my wheels are out of balance or bent, I’m beginning to suspect there’s something wrong with the suspension on the truck as well, which gets set off by the uneven wheels.

I’ve been through about 75% of my front suspension so far, having upgraded the springs, replaced 3 of the 4 tie rods, and repacked the wheel bearings on both sides; at this point I don’t know what else I need to focus on. I know I’ve got bushings that need to be replaced on the factory-installed sway bar, which could be the culprit, but I’m not sure that’s the issue. I called the Scout Connection to see if they’ve got the fourth tie rod—it’s a nonstandard length, about 9″ from edge to edge, going from the steering box to the lower arm on the driver’s hub—and bushings for the sway bars. I was grasping at straws at first, and thought I might look in the MT-118 Parts Catalog I’ve got on the shelf for kicks, when I was surprised to remember it’s for all of the C-series trucks, not the Scout II like I thought. So I was able to give them the part numbers, which is handy, and they’re going to call me back.

In the meantime, I’m going to swap the passenger front and rear wheels and see if that makes any difference at speed. The next thing to try will be throwing a set of $100 light truck tires on the two front wheels, in the off chance the trailer tires I put on them are just out of whack.

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While any major projects have slowed to a crawl, I’ve quietly been putting miles on the Travelall over the last couple of weeks. I’ve had her out for a couple of trips over 20 miles each, and she’s come through with flying colors. Last weekend I ran a bunch of errands with her and the only issues I found were the ongoing balance issues with the tires, and the engine sometimes dieseling on shutdown.

The second problem is due to a couple of issues, I suspect: I do have to retard the timing just a hair, but the main cause is due to the choke cable binding somewhere so that after the engine is started and I push it back in to open the choke, it’s not opening all the way—and the mechanism keeps the idle higher than normal. So she’s running a little hotter than she should, even though the temp needle stays pegged to the cooler side.

On the semi-positive side, I had a credit on the books with IHPA for my clutch core so I used that to get a set of window channels and felts for the rear doors on the truck. When I bought the fronts I wasn’t aware that the rears aren’t usually sold separately, so they had to do some wrangling. The company that makes the fronts doesn’t like to split the kits up so they went with their second supplier, who shipped them directly to me. After I looked the kit over, I was not as impressed with the fit and finish of the first kit: the channels aren’t backed with metal, nor do they have the clips IH used to mount the top section; the felts are thicker than OEM, come without the mounting clips installed, and are pre-drilled in the wrong locations.

I pulled the driver’s rear door apart, took the original metal channels out, and test-fit the new ones. They are flexible, so they don’t cradle the window firmly in the middle of the track, and they’re about 1/8″ too wide to fit in the original metal channels. The felts are mounted differently on the rear doors than the fronts; here they clip into the chrome trim ring on the outside and a black trim ring on the inside—which requires removal of both. The black ring is easy to take off but the chrome ring requires delicate surgery to pull off without bending. And because the chrome ring is on the outside, that’s the most important side to install.

With plastic trim tools I was able to gently pull the lower chrome section off the truck, and after drilling holes in the right locations, I fed the clips through and fastened them with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Re-assembling the door, I found that with both felts installed, the window was unable to rise past them; they’re too thick. I left the felt attached to the black trim ring and pulled another ring off one of my spare doors to swap onto the truck. With just the outer felt installed, the window went up and down—but the metal clips were scraping along the window as it went up and down. And the window was not moving smoothly after I put the door card back on.

I then broke down the passenger rear window on the Travelall and installed the channels and felt on that side, being sure to add a liberal coat of white lithium grease to the scissor and all of the door mechanisms. On this side, I put the felt on the outside chrome channel and then added two strips of rubber to the back of the inside black channel to keep the window from rattling—and that seems to do the trick. The window is quieter now, which is great, but I’m not impressed with this kit at all.

Last Saturday, I drove the Scout out to the store to pick up some oven cleaner, and sprayed a generous amount of that over the power steering pump, the steering box, and everything under and around it covered in oil and grease. She’s been leaking for some time now, and the reservoir was empty before I left the house, so this has been on my mind for a while. Steering boxes are very hard to find these days, and replacements are expensive, so I was nervous thinking about how much effort and money it would take to replace.

With the engine hot, the gunk broke up quickly, and I cleared it off with the pressure washer. With that done, I was able to see the frame on that side clearly for the first time, and noted that one of the previous owners had done some decent welding on the frame, bump stop and shock mounts. I sprayed the bare frame with rust-stop, then covered  that with chassis black, then ran the truck up for a little bit, parked it, and waited.

Last Sunday afternoon I did a careful inspection of the steering box, and I don’t see any leaks, nor do I see anyplace it could be leaking from. I noticed liquid dripping from above it, on what I think is the front of the pump, near the pulley. It’s hard to get my big fat head down in there to look closely. New pumps are about $150, so I’ll pick up a new one and swap it on.

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On Fumes

It was a very hot weekend, so my motivation for being outside was very low, but I did push forward with some small tasks on the Scout—and I put about 80 miles on the Travelall in two separate trips.

I had started pulling the evap fittings apart on the Scout last week, but what I needed was about 16 feet of thin-diameter fuel hose and a handful of new brass barb fittings. ACE hardware always comes through with the right stuff, and I was able to plumb three of five fittings in on the truck before I had to get the jack out and drop the tank about 4″ to access the ones on the top. When I had those all in place, I squinted multiple times at the diagram in the service manual, and I think I connected all of the hoses in the right locations. This evap system is supposed to do a couple of things: reduce fumes and emissions from the tank, but also provide a couple more vent pathways to prevent overfilling when adding new gas to the tank. We’ll see how that shakes out. If it doesn’t have any effect, then I’ll consider dropping this tank completely and re-installing the steel tank, which should seal up at the sender location much better.

I didn’t do much to the Travelall other than drive it, although two wiper blades came in at NAPA and I found a spring for the spare wiper arm to cobble something together. I still have a new one coming in tomorrow, which will get installed on the truck, but now I understand how it’s assembled. She’s running like a champ, but I still have to sort out the issue with the wheels.

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Post-Nats Video Update

Here’s a long-delayed video update covering everything after Nationals to now, including yesterday’s excellent Travelall update: The truck is starting again, after I ran out to the 800, stole the ignition switch from that, and swapped it in. As I was testing the old one I found that the lock barrel was just spinning inside the switch, which is very much not supposed to happen. This was the unit from the replacement wiring harness, so it was probably 60+ years old, and definitely due for a replacement.

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Realizations

I decided yesterday, as I was grinding to a stop about 100 feet past a red light, that I’m going to be driving the Scout to Nationals this year.

In the morning I dropped off the Travelall at a local shop, new to me, to have the wheels rebalanced. I got a good feeling from the shop when I pulled into the driveway and saw a bright green Volkswagen bus, a Porsche 944 and a beautiful 1968 Cadillac in their parking lot. Clearly, these are guys who are not afraid of older cars. After talking to the fellow behind the counter, I felt even better. They got back to me toward the end of the day to tell me they’d rebalanced the tires and put the worst ones on the back, but that those two are bent. On my way home, I took it down towards 195 to see how the wheels felt at highway speed. But before I could get there, I found that the brakes had faded so badly that I wound up unable to stop at a red light, requiring me to jam it into second gear, chirp the tires, and aim for the median to slow down enough so that I didn’t pull into the intersection. It was at that moment I accepted the fact that the truck just isn’t safe enough yet to take long distance.

This is fine; the Scout is running great and I have no doubt we’ll make it out there and back. Plus, convertible! I fully expect it to get hinges-of-hell-hot the day we hit the road.

For the Travelall, I’ve got a couple of choices. I’m definitely going to be looking for replacement 15 inch wheels when I’m out at Nationals. But, the most important improvement I need to make is going to be the brake system. There is a kit to convert front drum brakes to discs available, but it’s pricey. If I can find someone to buy the Bestop I’ll have made almost enough to pay for a disk kit. That, and a dual master cylinder would go a long way to improving the brake situation on the truck.

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Prep for Nationals

I had a busy weekend moving and shaking with truck stuff. The first task was to drive down to northern Virginia for a cheap used Bestop soft top I spied on Marketplace. Saturday mornings are the perfect time to get around Washington to avoid traffic, and it took just one hour to pull into the seller’s driveway. He was cleaning out his house in preparation for a sale, and had pulled the top down out of the garage attic for the first time in decades. All the parts were present and the fabric and plastic were in excellent shape, so I made the deal and headed home.

Bestops are different than Kaylines in that the mounting hardware is a completely different design, so I’m not interested in keeping this one, even though it’s in excellent shape. I opened it up, made sure all the parts were there, then shot pictures and put it up for sale on the Binder Planet. I’ll drag it to Nats to see if anyone wants to drive home with it and hopefully make some more gas money.

Then I drove over to the local U-Haul location and hitched a tow dolly up to the Scout. Once again I’m thankful that the previous owners did a great job wiring the truck up, including a tow harness. After getting it home, I backed it up to the 800 and did some thinking on how to get the truck onto the dolly. The first and easiest solution was to drop the battery from the Travelall into it and use the starter to crawl it up onto the dolly, but the starter is old and tired and couldn’t make it all the way up the ramps. So I put the tow strap on and used the Travelall to yank it up onto the dolly where I could get it strapped in place.

I had been nervous all week about towing the truck, but after some initial starts and check stops (I had to use a ratchet strap to hold the tailgate closed) I made it out to Brian’s with no issues. Peer Pressure pulled just fine, and apart from the engine getting warmer than usual I had no problems. At Brian’s, we puzzled out how to get the 800 off the ramp, down the driveway and into the garage, and settled on pulling the dolly out from under the front wheels. Then we let gravity pull the truck down the driveway where I did a 180 and lined it up to roll backwards into the garage bay.

With that done, I pulled the CR-V up onto the dolly, strapped it down, and headed for home. Again, Peer Pressure pulled it easily, and after dropping the Honda off and returning the dolly, I took the Travelall back out to Ellicott City for some dinner and a speed run up Rt. 40. The wheels are still vibrating badly up front, so hopefully the shop I’m taking it to on Wednesday can help me balance things out.

Sunday I did a lot of prep work on both trucks to make sure they’re both ready for the drive. I cut some 1/4 allthread down and made a battery hold down strap with a length of aluminum on the Travelall. Next, I pulled the front tires off the Scout and lubed the suspension up for the first time since ever. While the passenger wheel was off I finally replaced a section of rubber fuel line that was rubbing against the brake line as well as a filter between the pump and the carb—both of which date back to the previous owner. I tidied up wiring in the engine bay and along the frame rails, cleaned out the cabin, and topped off the fluids. On the red truck I did a lot of the same, as well as adjusted the timing and idle a bit to combat some dieseling I was getting at shutdown. I also tucked the rearmost section of headliner from the green truck up into Darth, grounded the dome light, and hooked it up to the circuit so that there’s a working light over the barn doors.

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Re-Organization

Memorial Weekend was damp and rainy, so I wasn’t able to do much outside, but I did take advantage of the time to re-re-re-organize in the garage. After erecting a set of racks for my Home Depot totes and immediately filling them all a few months ago, I quickly realized I needed another stack. So I cobbled together the rest of my spare lumber and put a second stack together, which required moving a bunch of other crap out of the way. By the end of Saturday I’d built and filled the new stack, raised the old kitchen cabinets on the back wall higher, moved the fridge underneath that, moved the second pair of spare Scout doors out under the back porch, and shifted a bunch of other stuff around to make more room. Then I consolidated some of the parts in the tubs and updated my parts spreadsheet so more common items are together. There’s still a long way to go, but I can get to it all much easier.

On the trucks, I did dumb puttery stuff like install the V7 cupholder (verdict: perfect!), swap the refinished passenger fender onto the truck to church it up for Nats, and tightened both fenders down securely. I pulled a bunch of parts down out of the attic to see if there’s any interest in Ohio—this is stuff they’re not currently reproducing—and stuffed them into a bin for the trip. And the floor is bolted down with more hardware.

I’ve been chasing the issue with the fuel gauge for a couple of weeks now. I tested the sender and found that it was sending, as well as the gauge behind the dashboard. Doing some more digging, I realized there’s another thing I hadn’t considered: I most likely fried the voltage regulator when I was welding on the truck in the fall of 2024—the same thing that fried the condenser on the distributor. I pulled the original off the truck and swapped in a used spare from the green truck, but that did nothing. The Jungle site overnighted me a new one, and after swapping it and the original blackface gauge back in, I was rewarded with a working unit again! Now I just have to drive it around for awhile with a jerry can in the back until I understand what it considers empty and full.

Friday evening I got a message on the Binder Planet from a guy in South Carolina who read the site here and was wondering if I still had any spare Kayline hardware in my collection. After trading some messages and an email, I sent him pictures of what I had and we struck up a deal. He’s one of the rare examples of someone who has an intact canvas top but only some of the mounting gear—I’ve come across piles of hardware made obsolete because the canvas was shredded. Along the way I’ve rescued a number of these spares, and I was happy to pass them along to him. I made a sturdy box out of some spare cardboard and shipped it off to him Tuesday afternoon.