New York Crispy

Two weeks ago, an ad popped up on Marketplace for a Travelette about 20 miles from my sister’s house in New York, and the only picture provided showed a very tired old truck lost amongst a stand of trees. I contacted the seller and he told me a little bit about it, then mentioned he had a Travelall further back in the field, and was vague on pricing. Later in the week, my brother-in-law generously offered to go bushwhacking to check it out, and he called me from the field to tell me what he was seeing. As I suspected, both rigs were New York-tired, meaning they’d lived a hard life on road salt and were well corroded on the bottom.

He sent me a number of pictures of rusted panels and cabins full of leaves and junk. The Travelette would offer a good grille surround as far as I can tell, and perhaps some glass, but there isn’t a lot of good stuff there to go with. The Travelall was a panel van, meaning the rear area where the glass lives is solid metal. But it was a barn door model, and there were some good parts left here and there from the pictures he sent; the ’62 grille and headlight surrounds might be worth some money, and the front clip looked like it was in good shape.

So, if I can make it up there this spring before the whole thing gets overtaken with weeds, wasps and water, I’ll stop in and pick up some of the remaining good stuff before it all oxidizes into the ground.

On Sunday I spent the majority of the day out in the driveway prepping the rear bench seat for upholstery with Jeff. They were still covered with foam and burlap after I’d removed the covers, and they needed to be separated, stripped down, wire wheeled, and covered in Rust Encapsulator. These two seats were an order of magnitude more disgusting than the fronts. Critters had made nests inside long ago (when I took the covers off, it covered the driveway in nuts and bedding) and the foam and burlap had been damp for a long time, so the springs were all covered in surface rust. I took them apart, soaked those bolts in Evaporust, and wire wheeled the outside of the frames. Then I brushed on Rust Enapsulator over all of the exposed metal, and when that had dried, sprayed the rest with black Rust Stop.


May 2023


March 2024

Meanwhile, I sanded the high points off the driver’s fender, skimmed some new mud over top, sanded it again, and skimmed a light amount on top to build up the body line for feathering out. It’s really close—it might take one or two light layers of filler to nail the ridge perfectly, but I can see how it’s a million times better than my original attempt to fix the problem.

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That’s Expensive

Following a request for help on a Travelall-specific FB page, I filled out a general inquiry form on an auto glass supplier’s website for new production of curved rear glass. I got an email back yesterday with the following quote and a note at the end (emphasis mine):

Dear Customers:

1 side then $1,495 + Fr 400 = $1,895 delivered cost lower 48
Both sides $2,595 + Fr 600 = $3,195 delivered cost lower 48
50% deposit and 50% due when it ships – under 12 weeks.

These #’s are based on 20 lefts & 20 rights being made.
If more PO’s come in b/ we make – cost decreases.

This will be last time we look at making these.

This roughly squares with a separate estimate I’d been given last year before I found the Holy Grail in Ohio, minus freight.

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Weekly Update, 2.26

From what little UPS has told me, my seat covers are gone. I had to go to the location I mailed them from and ask, and the guy went into the back of the office and looked and claimed they cut me a check at some point for $100 plus the amount I paid for shipping. Which also hasn’t arrived. So I have to organize a meetup with Jeff somewhere between here and Pittsburgh to hand over the seats.

My spare fuse block made it out to the Scout Connection on Wednesday, and Dave called me to let me know it’s actually not the right fuse block for my truck. I asked if we could swap it for a correct used spare and call it even, and he was happy to do that. So that process should be underway, and hopefully I’ll get a harness in the mail sometime soon. I can’t wait to open that Pandora’s box get that process started; having a working electrical system is one of the three biggest obstacles to getting this girl on the road.

I bought a basic hammer and dolly set from Harbor Freight on Saturday morning and got to work hammering out the dents in the driver’s fender. It took a bit of time to understand how the tools worked; there’s a hammer with a small contact area on either side and a flat spoon for wider areas, as well as two solid steel dollies for the backside. I started with the hammer and quickly realized it was too small a contact patch, and switched over to the spoon almost exclusively. In a couple of hours I had the edge shaped correctly and most of the valleys flattened out, as well as the overall curve of the fender re-formed. Hanging it on the truck I was pleased to see it matching up with the body line really closely, and the panel gap looked really close. After a few more adjustments I re-hung it to confirm everything aligned, and then got things ready to skim some filler over top.

Sunday morning I had a little free time so I used the orbital sander to knock off the high spots in the filler and then skimmed a second coat over the fist; the filler portion of things is going to take a lot of time (as the other fender did) to flatten the large areas and also match the curve over the fender.

 

February Update

I’ve had a bunch of shorter clips in the hopper for a while, and figured I’d collect them into something resembling an update.

On the project side of things, I used a heat gun to remove all of the old bondo on the driver’s side fender, then cut off the pop rivets used to hold a crappy patch in place installed Back in The Day.

When I had that out, I cut a larger square out to get things ready for a proper butt-welded patch. The other thing I had to do was to try and bend the rear edge of the fender outward and back into original position. At some point somebody really bashed it inwards so it never looked correct when it was hung on the truck. I was able to get it mostly back into place, and used my everyday hammer to do some dent removal. At this point I want to get an actual bodywork hammer and bag to pound out the larger dents instead of trying to hide sins with filler.

Once I had that cleaned up, I cut down a section of metal and tacked it into place. I’m going to have to finesse the bottom edge a little bit—or grind this off and re-orient it further down—but it looks like it’ll go in pretty easily.

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Weekly Roundup, 2.19.24

I spent a couple hours last weekend looking at the spare C-series wiring harness I’ve got tacked to a board vs. the diagrams in the service manuals, with a goal of trying to identify what I’ve got and to possibly refurbish it for the truck. In the manual there are two model years provided, those for the C100 series and those for the D1000+ series. With a lot of studying and some magnification I was able to track down some of the cable runs from the fuse block to their endpoint at the bulkhead connectors.

The easiest ones to follow were for the headlights: two green wires marked 18A and 18B, which didn’t change between the two model years. I put a multimeter lead at either end and tested for continuity, and was please to see things worked. I found and tested a couple more but got stalled when I was trying to compare what I found at the end of some of the bulkhead connectors to what the diagrams said, and stepped back to have a beer and a think. This wiring harness is in decent shape and is about 90% complete, but there are several runs that end in clipped wires before they get to a connector, which means I don’t know where they lead or how they connect to the truck.

I decided to do some product research. My first call was to Super Scout Specialists, who sadly told me the guy they had building their wiring harnesses is no longer with the company. Next I (gulp) called Travelallparts.com, who have harnesses listed on their site for $2-300 more than SSS does. They confirmed the price and told me I should consider a blade fuse upgrade to the kit for an additional $300. Then, on a hunch, I called the Scout Connection, with whom I had excellent luck finding the brake part nobody else was able to identify. Dave took my information and when he called back gave me a great price for a bench-tested used harness, minus the fuse panel. I told him I’d send him the spare fuse panel I have on my workbench, and we set up the deal.

Having a mostly working electrical system will be a huge upgrade to the truck; right now it starts and runs without any fusible links at all, which is still a bit mystifying to me, as are the working fuel and amperage gauges and the single brake light that worked before I disconnected the leads to the aftermarket trailer brake.

In other news, the box of dilapidated seat covers I sent Jeff last week have gone completely missing via UPS. On my visit to mail off the fuse panel (which was insured), I asked them to help me track it down, but they still don’t have any information.

Shiny Red

Jeff gave me a ring early in the week and asked me to send him the existing overs off the seats I have because he’s worried what he has might not fit correctly. So I went out at lunchtime on Tuesday and quickly pulled the covers off the rear bench and front vertical section, wrote where they came from, and boxed them up to be UPS’d up to him. I would like to have spent more time taking pictures of how they were assembled, but I was up against the clock and weather, and wanted to keep the process moving.

Jeff said I’m welcome to come up to his place and he’d show me how they go together when he’s got them completed, and it’s looking more and more like I might take him up on that offer. I’m sure I could figure out a lot of things on my own but I’d rather have an expert show me the right way first before I ruin anything.

The other thing I did on Saturday was to cut and fit two sections of steel to the corners before welding them into place. I have no idea why they would have kept these parts separate, and I figured sturdier is better in any case. A spray can of Rust-Stop helped me reach all the sections the brush missed, and with that the front bench is ready for upholstery. Next I’ve got to clean off the rear.

On the fender I got all of the low spots mudded out and sanded down, then used fill & sanding primer to identify any last trouble spots. When I was satisfied with the way things looked I used some 1000 grit to polish it up and then sprayed on two coats of rattle-can IH Implement Red to cover things. Overall it looks very good, and there’s only a drip around the fuel inlet port I have to smooth out. The next step will be to scrape all the old undercoating off the back, wire wheel any remaining rust, cover it with Encapsulator, and then spray on some undercoating.

I took the driver’s side off and started knocking off all the Bondo I’d applied in the summer as well as the stuff it came to me with; I’m going to take it back down to bare metal and start over again. This time I’m going to cut out the bad metal and riveted patch and try to get it as close to the original as I can while I keep looking for replacements. This one is going to take a lot more time to fix.

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Compression

Saturday morning broke with the first good sunshine we’ve had in a long time, so I decided that I would take advantage of as much of it as I could. After a mile-long walk with the dog and a cup of coffee with Jen, I put on my coveralls and headed out to the garage. The first thing I wanted to tackle was pulling and inspecting each spark plug I’d installed last year to ensure they were gapped correctly and to do a compression test. I pulled the coil wire, started with the #1 cylinder and worked my way backwards on the driver’s side, then finished on the passenger side.

All of the gaps looked right at spec, and the tips were all covered in gassy-smelling oil—which I expected, considering that I haven’t been able to get her running consistently for a long period of time. The most important information was good information: all of the cylinders had excellent compression, with the lowest of any of them at 125psi. This means the rings are in great shape and have hopefully reseated themselves after their long slumber.

When that was done I pulled the passenger fender out into the sun and hit it with sanding blocks for the second time, working the high spots down and smoothing out the second skim coat. It’s really shaping up on the outside, and I’m having great luck with the new filler.

One drawback was that the inner metal collar I’d welded on to the backside of the fuel port came off as I was sanding it down; when I welded the inside edges and then sanded off the excess metal apparently I was a little too zealous and weakened those welds. So this time I predrilled a bunch of pilot holes along the outer circumference and used those to tack the collar back in place from the back side—something I should have done in the first place. I’ll fill the inside edge with seam sealer to hide the welds, which are mostly hidden anyway. Then I skimmed filler on the low spots, which are (thankfully) decreasing in number.

Sunday morning I ran up the Scout for the first time in two weeks and let it warm up in the driveway. After attaching my ghetto exhaust extender (a 5′ length of HVAC pipe attached to the tailpipe, with 20′ of PVC reaching past the side of the garage) I turned both idle mixture screws all the way back into the carb and then backed them out 1/4 turn. Adding a little starting fluid to the carb, she fired right up and idled much smoother than she had two weeks ago, but then I saw the giant clouds of white smoke coming from the end of the exhaust and figured I’d better shut her down. So the rough idle issue is mostly sorted out, but I need a good windy day to run it up and clean the Berrymans out of the fuel system.

Next, I got to work tearing the front bench seat base down to the metal. I set up a GoPro and took a bunch of pictures, then started tearing the old vinyl off the frame. Removing the foam, burlap, and reed padding, I cut the old hog rings off and wire wheeled the outside elements, and then looked it over. There were three sections that needed to be welded back together, so I set up the MIG, dialed it in for thinner metal, and put them back together. Then I brushed encapsulator on the whole thing, which was a tedious job.

There are two sections on the back side that look like they could have been welded originally, but also maybe they weren’t. I texted Jeff to see what he thought and he told me his seat is from a ’68 and doesn’t look like mine. I’m mulling over whether I should weld in a set of supports there just to keep the whole thing sturdy.

While that was drying I pulled the fender out and continued sanding the high points down. It’s getting very close. There are only about five small areas that needed to be skimmed—hopefully for the last time—so I put some filler on to cure while the weather was still warm.

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Slow Weekend

I did a little work on the fender this weekend to get it shaped up for body filler. I had to stop welding midway through  the third patch last weekend, so I plugged everything back in and finished that off today. It’s going to take a fair bit of filler to smooth everything out because I can’t get to the backside to hammer out any of the waves, but I’m not too worried about that. The whole thing is going to take some time and attention to finish off right, but I’m happy with the way things are going so far.

Updating the Travelall to-do list last week I realized I don’t have some of the information I need on the health of the engine, so I spent $20 on a compression tester for when the weather warms up. The last time I started her, she ran very rough, so I think there’s more work to do tuning her up. I’m going to pull the plugs, see how they look, and properly gap them all. Then I’ll do a compression test and put them back in.

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Commerce

I’ve had an idea for a T-shirt design bubbling in my head for a while now, and while I was working on video editing (and waiting for files to render) last week, I put it together in Illustrator:  a profile view of a Travelall with the script I’ve already built underneath. This time I built two designs—one for light-colored shirts and one for dark, which is more work but avoids a pet peeve of mine, when printers just reverse out a design in white and the negative spaces aren’t correctly negative. The other big leap I took was to post it up in a couple of Travelall-specific groups on Facebook, the first time I’ve posted there (other than Marketplace) in years. Within 24 hours I sold seven shirts and got two requests for custom truck colors and one for a coffee mug, which was easy to do because of the way I set the file up.

Here’s to hoping the orders keep coming in; I think I might do a Scout II next—until the VW group sends me a cease-and-desist.

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Manual

I stumbled upon an original 1963 Operator’s Manual for the Travelall on eBay before Christmas but passed on it because I thought the price was too high; eBay contacted me after New Year’s and told me the seller had dropped the price dramatically so I jumped on it. It stinks of cigarettes and old man but it’s in fantastic shape otherwise, and as a time capsule it’s a lot of fun.

In the meantime I went out to warm up the Scout and see if I could get the Travelall running as well. After some initial tests I filled the carb bowl and shot it with starting fluid, and it coughed to life briefly. I noticed that nothing was reaching the fuel filter above the fuel pump, so I threw some gas in the tank and tried it again. This time it ran choppily for about a minute before it starved out again, so I dumped the rest of my gas in the tank and tried one more time with the battery power I had left. Clearly the gas in the tank has evaporated out—I’ve only got the cap to a spray can covering the inlet tube—so I’ll go get some more gas and fill it up before I try it again.

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