October Update

Here’s a recap of the last two weeks; it’s mainly covering the disassembly of the two spare C-series doors, welding the passenger footwell, cleaning out the gas tank, needle-scaling the passenger-side front fender and frame area, and weatherstripping the two front doors.

In the meantime, I’m waiting for Eastwood to get back to me about my welder. I talked to their tech support line and they’re going to get back to me about the next steps, but it sounded like they’re going to send me a new part after we figure out what’s not working.

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Weekend Update, 11.4

The garage is currently empty, which is a strange feeling. I dropped the Scout off at a new garage to have the transmission looked over, after the drive back from Indiana coated the entire undercarriage with oil. It took a while to find someone who would work on the truck. My long-standing transmission shop, who had worked on it as recently as three years ago, isn’t servicing manual transmissions anymore, and the fellow who fixed the manifold for me last year didn’t want to deal with heavy stuff like that either. This new shop was recommended to me by a truck guy I’ve met at Cars & Coffee, and when I got the owner on the phone I got a good vibe from him. I drove it over on Wednesday and buttoned it up for possible rain; they told me they’d store it inside for me. So now we wait to have the problem diagnosed. If this works out, I’ll look into having the Travelall towed down there to sort out the transmission.

Speaking of that transmission, after researching it some more Sunday morning, I was surprised to find that I’ve been wrong this whole time about it. I’d thought it was a non-synchro manual like Brian has in his Scout. It’s actually a T-98A, which is synchronized in all but the first gear. I’d been thinking about how I’d have to find a more modern transmission to swap in, like the T-19 in the Scout, but maybe I won’t have to.

Meanwhile, the passenger firewall is 95% buttoned up; all that’s left is to weld the hose bracket back on to the angled face and paint the new metal. I can’t weld anything, though, because my welding gun isn’t advancing any wire. I disconnected it, put a new spool on, and checked the contacts but the wire won’t go. I called the Eastwood store on Saturday and after talking with the shop manager, he gave me the 800 number for tech support; tomorrow I’ll call them and walk through some diagnostics. The unit has a 3-year warranty so he told me they’ll send me new parts free of charge.

So, I focused on what I could Sunday afternoon by busting out the needle scaler and cleaning off the frame and underside of the passenger inner fender to prep things for encapsulator. The area under the rocker on that side got cleaned off, and the underside of the bed is curing to get ready for a layer of undercoating. I then installed weatherstripping on both of the front doors, finished painting the gas tank, and needle-scaled the frame on the driver’s side before it got dark.

Down in the basement I cut down a 12″ section of 1/4″ rod and threaded it with a 28-pitch die on both ends. The goal here is to fabricate a new rod for the mirror mount that I can swap out for the rusty one in the broken unit. Now I have to pop the endcap off of the spare mirror to test the method before I go banging on the good one.

 

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Floorpan, Continued

I spent a couple of evenings this past week breaking down the green Travelall doors and collecting all of the parts to see how things look. The passenger door is in worse shape than the driver’s; there’s a fair bit of rust-through under the wing window on the bottom. Both doors are down to the metal, but on each one the lower hinge needs to be drilled out. That may make reusing them both tricky, but I think careful screw removal and re-tapping the hole is possible. Both windows, scissor assemblies, latch mechanisms, and most of the window channels are all in good shape. I’ve also got a second set of pre-’65 door latches for both sides from my friend Don in Ohio, which will come in handy as spares in case I need them.

The other thing Don sent me was a spare set of IH mirror assemblies. One of them is basically just the bracket, but the other held the mirror housing (minus the mirror) which actually worked in my favor, because I can see how the interior parts are assembled. Essentially there’s a long rod that goes through the center, threaded at each end, and held in place with two brackets welded to the rod. So even if I wanted to pull the rod out of my good housings I couldn’t.

To recap, the threads on one of my good mirrors was so rusted the bolts snapped off on each side, leaving me with no way to attach it to the bracket. Pretty much the only way I can make my good mirror work is to carefully pull one of the endcaps off, pull the threaded rod out, and replace it with a new one. The rod is pretty simple; it’s 1/4″ and takes a 1/4″ – 28 thread, which is easy to find a die for. It’s getting the cap off that worries me. It’s thin steel over an aluminum housing, so I have to be very careful taking things apart.

Saturday I stopped in at a neighborhood estate sale and picked up $20 worth of brand-name used tools that will come in handy for backups and spares, including four vice-grips and several wrenches.

Sunday I got back out to the truck and continued cutting and welding new metal in to the passenger’s footwell. I wound up taking more metal out, as I was having blow-through issues with bad metal and finding some pinholes as I was cleaning other sections. I think I’ve got all of the bad stuff out, and the stuff that’s still mildly pockmarked just got a thick coat of encapsulator. Underneath I ground out the rest of the welds and got it ready for paint. All of this took the majority of the day, as I was doing a lot of cutting and trimming, which sent me back and forth to the bench grinder.

The paint cured overnight and is now ready for seam sealer, which will be applied liberally around the edges before everything gets primed. On the outside edge of the footwell I ground everything flat and covered it in etch primer; it’s going to get several coats of chassis black and then a layer of undercoating to keep out the water.

Finally, I used some vinegar to flush out the inside of the gas tank and let that sit for a day and a half , shaking it around inside to get the crud out and neutralize any rust. Running a borescope down inside the tank, it looks shockingly clean apart from the remains of mud dauber nests. I flushed it with water and a solution of baking soda, then flushed it again and set it out to dry. The outside was covered with undercoating and some surface rust along the top and sides, so i hit that with a wire wheel and quickly got the whole thing down to bare metal. When the top and sides were clean I covered the trouble spots with Encapsulator and the bare spots with etch primer. I’m back and forth about pulling the fuel sender, but leaning towards leaving it in, as I know that it works and don’t want to mess with that.

So in the next couple of days when the temperature gets above 60˚ I’m going to apply sealer and paint to button up as much as I can.

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The Verdict

I really dig this. I think they got a lot of things right here. Among others:

  • 200M range, with an optional range-extending ICE engine—this is the way
  • Split rear tailgate with a swing-away tire carrier
  • 4 doors but a silhouette pointing directly back at Scout II design cues (called the Traveler)
  • A 4 door pickup version, called the Terra
  • Optional bench seat!!
  • Buttons for the controls, not touchscreens
  • Multiple roof options (but no removable top)
  • Solid rear axle
  • Body on frame construction
  • Projected price point: $50-60K

It’s still pricey for our budget, but I would really love to move to an electric vehicle in something like this.

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Welding and Steering

On Saturday I got back out to the truck in the afternoon following a yard sale and continued metalwork on the truck. I had to finish welding in the floor plate first, which felt like it took more time than last Sunday, then grind down the welds on top and underneath. I was happy to see I had good weld penetration when I was down under the truck, though it makes for tired arms when you’re grinding upside-down for a half an hour.

Then I started cutting smaller sections out of the toeboard that had rusted through, including a triangle-shaped area on the A-pillar. I cut a section of new metal, got that welded in to the toeboard area, and ground it smooth, finishing up as it was getting dark.

Sunday morning I got up, walked the dog, and drove up to Frederick to pick up a steering column from another Travelall, sold by a guy I’d met last year. He’s grafted a Crown Victoria front suspension and Ranger rear on to his ’68, lowering the whole thing onto airbags and tubbing out the rear tires. It’s really cool, even if it isn’t my cup of tea. His work is really nice (he’s a bodyman), and it’s going to be a sweet truck when he’s done.

The column he sold me is a column-shift unit, which may work for what I need and may not. I think I can cobble together one good column out of the two and probably sell the steering wheel at Nats to make some money back. The plan is to get an electric steering unit from a Toyota Corolla and splice it into the column.

I had errands to run after lunch, so by the time I got back outside it was 3PM and I didn’t want to drag all of the welding gear out for just one hour. So I filled the compressor tank, busted out the needle scaler, and cleaned off the frame and undercarriage all the way up to the front axle. By 5PM I had the frame coated with Encapsulator as well as most of the underside of the body shell. That was extremely satisfying. Next it’ll all get a coat of chassis black and then the body will get a coat of undercoating.

X-Ray Vision

I stumbled upon a re-listing of C1100 parts on Marketplace by a nice fellow named Don, who I’d bought a handful of things from earlier this year. One of the things in the upper corner of the picture that caught my eye was a set of West Coast mirror mounts, which immediately prompted me to get in touch. He sent me back a picture of them both, cautioning me that one was just the mount and the other was the mirror assembly minus the mirror. I told him that was what I was interested in.

This is almost as good as having an intact mirror; now I can see what the inside looks like and how my existing mirror is built without taking it apart. In the best case scenario I can pull the rod out of this one and put it in mine; in the worst case I can get a new threaded rod and fix the good one myself.

He’s also got a set of pre-’64 door latches, which are a lot more rare on the ground than the spares I’ve got, and something I can refurb on the bench and install at my leisure. We settled on a very fair price, and he’s going to throw the stuff in a box and ship it out to me next week.

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Steering and Commerce

I popped on Marketplace Wednesday morning to find that a fellow up in Frederick, who I’ve talked to before, has a Travelall steering column for sale. Crucially, it’s from a straight-axle manual steering truck, which means it should be a direct replacement for the one in the red bus. Which means I would have a direct replacement/test case for an electric steering setup. He’s got the manual box and some other odds and ends, so I’m going to make plans to go up and get it.

While I was on that site, I got a notification and found that my old college buddy Mike bought one of my shirts and was modeling it! I think it looks great. I should have several of my own arriving shortly—a longsleeve and a shortsleeve that I can use on the videos to model. I also ordered a sticker while I was there and was….less than impressed. The material is flimsy and the sticker is small. I’m going to pull these from the storefront and stick with my other vendors, I think.

Welding Projects

The worst rust on this truck, besides the stuff I cleaned up on the roof, was in the passenger footwell. As a result of the same leaks that doomed the cowl and heater box, water got in and sat on the metal under the passenger’s floormat, collecting mainly at the diagonal seam from the tunnel. At some point the PO had fixed the same issue on the driver’s side by hacking a hole out of the floor and welding a crude patch over top, then covering it with some kind of bizarre rubberized material.

Knowing my gas tank was mostly empty, and because it’s only hooked up to the gas feed, I figured this was the best time to attack the rust. I jacked up the passenger side of the truck at three points on the frame and secured it with jackstands. The tank is held in place by a pair of clever straps that secure to two captive bolts on the underside of the body, and one came free easily, while the other captive bolt broke off from its weld. After I cut that loose and disconnected the hoses up front, the tank dropped out easily. I was surprised to find an access hole directly above the sender unit, which should be very helpful down the road. I was shocked to find I’d dropped the tank in under an hour.

I pulled the tank aside and looked over the floor situation. Starting with the area at the front, I cut out the rust that looked the worst, making a rough rectangle with a triangle-shaped section following the seam at the upper left. The body mount and frame mount underneath both looked like they were in great shape, and the metal underneath everything was in factory-fresh condition. I hated to cut a lot of it out, but I wanted to get as much good stuff in there as possible.

When I’d squared off and cleaned up the edges, I cut some cardboard out and carefully made a template to work from. This took some time, because the open area was deceivingly complex in shape.

When I had that sorted, I pulled a sheet of 18 ga. metal from my stash and cut the pattern out. With a bunch of trimming and fitting, I had it ready to go in by about 4PM. Being careful to take my time, I tacked the edges in slowly using butt welds. The section along the rocker got welded from the underside where the good metal was; I didn’t want to cut the raised section out because I can’t replicate that, so I’m taking a chance and keeping it. All of this is going to be treated as heavily as possible with rust encapsulator/undercoating, so I’m hoping I can halt any new rust from forming in the future.

By 5PM it was getting dark so I shut things down after a preliminary sweep with the flap disc. I’m kind of shocked at how much I was able to get done in one day’s time; the process went really smoothly and I’m a lot more confident in my basic fabrication skills, as well as welding.

The other quick thing I tackled was to weld a second set of tabs in on the seat lockbox so that I can drill holes and mount that in permanently. I’m going to clean up the chipped rattle-can paint and hit it with the clear coat just to protect it a little better, but I’d like to finish that up in preparation for the seats later this winter.

One thing I need to upgrade is my safety glass situation. Running the cutting wheel early in the day with my safety glasses on, I got a couple small pieces of debris in my right eye for the second week in a row. After fishing that stuff out I found a pair of old goggles and wore those for the rest of the day, but there’s got to be a better solution. If I’m going to be grinding this much I need a full-coverage set of prescription goggles.

The other thing that was nice was that my $1 yard sale iPod Nano has a built-in radio receiver, which meant I was able to listen to the Ravens game wearing goggles, ear protection, a dust mask, and my glasses on.

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